"Mounted on Gatorboard with a white border you would have a very nice print. Glue a standoff on the back of the Gatorboard and you add dimensionality and interest to the scene."
As someone who produces hundreds of print for exhibitions and artists and photographers monthly. the suggestion above alone is only a short term way of display. the print has no protection both mechanically and against light.
If you want to display large prints, generally without glass is bets (although I have done framed pieces up to 3 meters long with glass) the print needs laminating.
A flat mat paper for example photo rag marks if you look at it wrong never mind fades in about 30 years (assuming using epson inks) without glass etc in front of it. to get 70 years + you need some kind of protection, for both technical and light protection, for example you can't really dust a print on a rag paper mounted on gatorboard
I am enjoying reading your articles and gleaning some tips to improve my panoramas.
I can see where using a 100mm + focal length lens can really add to your visual presentation of the panorama. The detail is enhanced and the distortion is minimized if not reduced.
I would like to read about the the use of a nodal bracket and how that helps.
My curiosity is getting to me as I am using my D700 for my practicing of shooting pans with 10 images in a row for a total of 20 and 30 images. What does it take as far as computer resources to process the large images that you produce? As it seems to take some serious hp just to do the images from my D700. It will really take some processing power and time to do the images from my D800.
I am hoping to get a great image that I can enlarge to 7 ft for the living room. I can see that following your newsletters.
I would love to see your pano checklist. Thanks for sharing the way you do. I appreciate your generosity.
"Mounted on Gatorboard with a white border you would have a very nice print. Glue a standoff on the back of the Gatorboard and you add dimensionality and interest to the scene."
As someone who produces hundreds of print for exhibitions and artists and photographers monthly. the suggestion above alone is only a short term way of display. the print has no protection both mechanically and against light.
If you want to display large prints, generally without glass is bets (although I have done framed pieces up to 3 meters long with glass) the print needs laminating.
A flat mat paper for example photo rag marks if you look at it wrong never mind fades in about 30 years (assuming using epson inks) without glass etc in front of it. to get 70 years + you need some kind of protection, for both technical and light protection, for example you can't really dust a print on a rag paper mounted on gatorboard
Very interesting reading, but for me a faster and easier way is to shoot with a Linhof 617 Technorama.
I am enjoying reading your articles and gleaning some tips to improve my panoramas.
I can see where using a 100mm + focal length lens can really add to your visual presentation of the panorama. The detail is enhanced and the distortion is minimized if not reduced.
I would like to read about the the use of a nodal bracket and how that helps.
My curiosity is getting to me as I am using my D700 for my practicing of shooting pans with 10 images in a row for a total of 20 and 30 images. What does it take as far as computer resources to process the large images that you produce? As it seems to take some serious hp just to do the images from my D700. It will really take some processing power and time to do the images from my D800.
I am hoping to get a great image that I can enlarge to 7 ft for the living room. I can see that following your newsletters.
A very interesting and informative read Les. I too would love to see your pano checklist.
I use an Epson SC P800 printer with the roll paper attachment. Is there a formula for the optimum length of print for the 17” wide paper roll I use?
Many thanks for the advice.